Bravely Bohemian

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Battleship USS Wisconsin BB-64: Touring an Iowa Class U.S. Navy Ship

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Here in the U.S., we have such a rich military history. We are so fortunate to have many military museums across the country that document history while preserving military artifacts. I recently toured the Battleship USS Wisconsin (BB-64), which sits in the harbor of Norfolk, VA and is part of the fantastic Nauticus maritime museum. This massive ship and its various crews served in three wars and was an absolute mechanical engineering marvel for its time. It was a very humbling experience to be on the battleship. I encourage you to take the time to visit the USS Wisconsin or one of its sister Iowa class battleships in your travels.

Battleship USS Wisconsin BB-64
About to board the USS Wisconsin at the Nauticus Museum in Norfolk, VA.

The USS Wisconsin is one of four Iowa class battleships that were built during World War II. Six battleships of this size and design were ordered by the U.S. Navy to be built during World War II, but luckily the war ended before the last two were completed.

All four of the Iowa class battleships are decommissioned by the Navy and are open to the public for tours. Here are their locations and links to learn more:

*USS Iowa (BB-61) is in Los Angeles, CA at the Battleship Iowa Museum and Pacific Battleship Center.

*USS New Jersey (BB-62) is in Camden, NJ, across the river from Philadelphia, at the Battleship New Jersey Museum and Memorial.

*USS Missouri (BB-63) is in Pearl Harbor, HI at the Battleship Missouri Memorial.

*USS Wisconsin (BB-64) is in Norfolk, VA at the Nauticus Featuring the Battleship Wisconsin.

The USS Illinois and USS Kentucky were the other two Iowa class battleships that were begun but never completed due to the end of World War II. Their hulls were later scrapped in 1958.

History of the USS Wisconsin and Sister Iowa Class Battleships

USS Wisconsin Iowa class battleship
View of USS Wisconsin BB-64 battleship in Norfolk, VA.

So what was the big deal about the Iowa class battleships, including the USS Wisconsin?

According to Randall S. Shoker, who wrote the museum guidebook for the USS Wisconsin, by late 1937, the U.S. Navy caught wind that the Imperial Japanese Navy was building three super battleships. These battleships were estimated to be larger and more powerful than any ship in the US Navy fleet or even scheduled to be built.

Per the Second London Naval Treaty of 1936, the U.S, France and Great Britain requested that Japan not build any military ships over 35,000 tons. It became evident that the Imperial Japanese government was disregarding the treaty. As a result, the U.S. Navy went to work developing plans and designs for the 45,000 ton, 16-inch gun Iowa class battleships.

USS-Wisconsin_16 inch guns_forward deck
Close-up of three 16 inch gun bases gracing the deck of the USS Wisconsin.

The main purpose of the Iowa class battleships, including the USS Wisconsin, was to provide escort and protection to the aircraft carriers and smaller ships that made up the U.S. Navy presence in the Pacific Theater during World War II. As you step on board the USS Wisconsin or one of its sister ships, you will quickly realize these battleships were not to be messed with! These ships are massive, as are the guns gracing its deck. Even the anchors and anchor lines are huge.

USS Wisconsin_Bow of boat_anchor chains
View of the USS Wisconsin standing near the bow of the boat. Note the two huge anchor chains.

What is really interesting about the USS Wisconsin, was that it was commissioned for World War II, then decommissioned, reactivated for the Korean War, decommissioned again, then reactivated for Operation Desert Storm in 1991, with its final decommissioning in 2006. The strength of the ship and its immense firing power from its 16-inch guns, were still useful almost 30 years later after the ship was built. We had a friend who served on the USS Wisconsin in Operation Desert Storm who said there was nothing like those huge guns going off! The guns have a 23 nautical mile range.

Touring the USS Wisconsin and Sister Ships

USS Wisconsin_Battleship_Tour_sign
Welcome sign for USS Wisconsin battleship tour.

Each of the battleships offers self-guided tours as well as VIP scheduled tours. I highly recommend taking at least one of the VIP scheduled tours. They are totally worth the extra cost. Often led by retired US Navy Veterans, you will learn a ton not only about the ship but also about how people lived and worked on the ship. And the veterans are full of stories from their own naval experiences. They also share stories from people who served on the ship and who have come back as civilians to share their own memories.

Top of USS Wisconsin_Radar_Equipment
The USS Wisconsin and other Iowa class battleships were updated in the 1980s to have modern radar and missile systems.

On the USS Wisconsin, I toured the main sections of the battleship first. Most people do this by following the self-guided ship map and signs. I was fortunate to be part of a private tour group and event fundraiser, which inspired me to come back to do additional tours. You can wander around the main deck, and then go below to see everything from the ship’s chapel and dental clinic, to the enlisted men’s living quarters, offices, machine shop and mess hall.

Throughout the ship, you will see military posters and bits of artwork graffiti adorning the walls created by various sailors throughout the years. Wandering around the ship really gives you an idea of how big the USS Wisconsin is, yet how cramped it must have been when operating with a full crew.

16 inch guns_USS Wisconsin
Note how large the 16 inch guns are in comparison to the students standing by them.

Guided Command and Control Tour

Conning Deck view toward Bow on USS Wisconsin
View from the Conning Deck of the USS Wisconsin facing the bow of the battleship and downtown Norfolk, VA.

Next, I took the VIP Guided Command and Control tour. This included climbing up and down four stories of the ship on original, really narrow metal ladders. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes. You will also be walking over grates, climbing through hatches and trying not to bump into things. Your legs may or may not forgive you after this ship-wide adventure!

USS Wisconsin_Machine_shop
The USS Wisconsin was almost completely self-sufficient while out to sea. If any gears or equipment broke, new ones could be built in the Machine Shop.

The tour takes you through officer quarters, including that of the Admiral and Captain, which are interesting to compare to the cramped quarters of the enlisted men. You will be impressed by the Combat Engagement Center. This is where the action of the ship was plotted, planned and acted upon. While the room is filled with part World War II and Korean War components, the space was also updated with modern equipment such as computers and radar in the mid-1980s. You will listen to an impressive “live” combat situation while parts of the room light up to help you understand who makes decisions when and how an operation would proceed.

USS Wisconsin Iowa class battleship Combat Engagement room
Combat Engagement Center on the USS Wisconsin with 1991 state of the art radar and missile control technology.

Next, you will then be taken up to the bridge and conning tower, where there is an amazing view over the front of the ship. The flag bridge was where the captain often spent his time. Then the pilot tower sits on the deck above the flag bridge. I also enjoyed seeing the central part of the pilot tower, known as the armored conning tower. The conning tower is the chamber from which the ship was actually steered. Three sailors were literally locked into the room for the duration of their shifts. The room was circular and reinforced by over 17 inches of steel. The idea was that the room could withstand bomb impacts from enemy fire, so the sailors could keep navigating the ship regardless of what else was happening elsewhere on the ship.

USS Wisconsin Navigation Room Iowa class battleships
Navigation Room: Sailors were trained in both high tech and traditional navigation techniques.

Finally, the tour concludes with a visit to the areas where Operation Desert Storm era Tomahawk missiles once inhabited the ship. The Wisconsin held eight box launchers on one of its upper decks. These boxes contained a total of 32 Tomahawk cruise missiles. These missiles worked on a precision system and could hit a target up to 675 miles away. Some of the box launchers and the tracks they worked on are still intact on the ship.

Tomahawk missile launch box_USS_Wisconsin_1991_Desert_Storm
An example of a Tomahawk missile launch box used in 1991 Desert Storm on the deck of the USS Wisconsin.

Guided Engine Room Tour

Steam system diagram_USS Wisconsin_engineering
This diagram shows the engineering behind the four identical steam systems that drove the USS Wisconsin forward.

The next tour I took was into the bowels of the USS Wisconsin on the Guided Engine Room Tour. I know very little about electrical and mechanics, but all I could think during this tour, was Wow! What an amazing feat of engineering. The Iowa class battleships were built to be sleek and fast. The ships operated on steam and could cruise through the water at up to 33 knots. They also held so much gasoline (over 2.5 million gallons of fuel) that they could refuel smaller ships in the Navy fleet while at sea. This was a huge advantage at the time.

The USS Wisconsin and other Iowa class battleships were fast because they were operated by 4 identical competing boiler systems. Each fire room contained 2 oil-burning boilers, a total of 8. The boilers were manually managed, creating steam to power the ship. The ship was then managed and driven forward by 4 massive propellers.

Our guide shared a 3-D video with us in one of the fire rooms, where a sailor takes you through the process he uses to light the boiler and then monitor its heat and steam production. Depending on commands from other parts of the ship, such as how fast to sail, sailors in the engine rooms would manually adjust the boilers and steam production. If it was “Full sail ahead!” our guide said the four-engine room teams would often compete with each other to see how fast and accurately they could get their part of the ship operating.

USS-Wisconsin_Fire_Room_Boiler
An example of a lit boiler in one of four Fire Rooms aboard the USS Wisconsin.

The Engine Room tour was fascinating. Once again, get ready to traipse all over the ship, mostly climbing to the lower decks. Everywhere you turn there are electrical lines, pipes, valves, and gears. You will wander through “Broadway” the main corridors that run the length of the ship on both sides.

USS_Wisconsin_Broadway_running length of ship
“Broadway” ran the length of both sides of the USS Wisconsin. Note all the chamber doors that could be closed during combat operations.

Also, you will visit the Machine Shop, where any valve or part for the ship that breaks could be recreated onsite. Then, you will then scoot down some very steep ladders and across grates to see the boilers, walls of fire room gauges, turbo generators, steam turbines and the propeller shafts. Again, you will have that feeling like you are going to bump your head on beams or back into gauges or pipes. It is a true reality check when you think that during its lifetime, up to 2,800 men lived and worked on the USS Wisconsin at any given time!

USS Wisconsin_Engine_Room_Gauges
Manually monitored gauges in one of the four engine rooms on the USS Wisconsin.

While someone who studied engineering or electricity will really enjoy the details of what they are looking at, the USS Wisconsin Engine Room tour is still very eye-opening. The equipment to run the Iowa class ships was massive! You walk away imagining how hard (and hot!) the work was for sailors to run these ships 24/7. And I am thoroughly amazed that the USS Wisconsin was used in Operation Desert Storm in 1991. While it had many upgrades in its radar, missile defense and electronic systems up top, the reality was the manual engine operations propelling the boat were much the same as they were in World War II and the Korean War.

USS-Wisconsin_example_gears_valves_Mechanical_engineering
The USS Wisconsin and sister Iowa class battleships were true feats of mechanical engineering. This is an example of typical gears and valves used to manage the ship.

I encourage you to visit the USS Wisconsin at the Nauticus museum in Norfolk, VA and its sister Iowa class battleships in New Jersey, Los Angeles, and Hawaii. As one middle school student from Ontario, Canada who I happened to meet while standing at the bow of the boat looking back at the whole of the ship, exclaimed, “This is AWESOME!” I had to laugh at his enthusiasm, (He’s a future engineer, for sure!), but also had to agree setting foot on the USS Wisconsin is an impressive experience.

Happy Adventuring!

Love military history? You may also like this travel review on the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, VA.


Why You Should Visit the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, Virginia

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If ever roadtrip through Western Virginia along the I-81 corridor, be sure to take some time to visit the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, VIrginia.

National D-Day Memorial_73rd Anniversary of D-Day

Today marks the 73rd anniversary of D-Day. June 6, 1944 was the day in World War II when thousands of Allied troops landed on the harsh beaches of Normandy, France to begin taking Europe back from the Nazis. This massive undertaking, the largest invasion in history, involved over 150,000 troops, 5,000 ships and 11,000 aircraft, plus months of planning, preparation and secrecy. It also took immense bravery for young men, most between the ages of 18 and 25, to land on the now 5 famous beaches- Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword- to forge ahead under intense Axis gun fire and to climb the Normandy cliffs. Allied casualties were high, estimated in the 10,000 range, with over 4,400 dead in just the first day of fighting. These men fought for our freedom and way of life. We must never forget their dedication and sacrifice.

That being said, I encourage you to visit the National D-Day Memorial, tucked amongst the hills and mountains of Bedford, Virginia. I have been there many times. Each time, I am humbled, learn something new and come away with a feeling of peace. Many Veterans of all eras and operations, World War II to the present, have reported feeling a sense of calm and healing after visiting the Memorial.

National D-Day Memorial Bedford, VA
Overview of the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, Virginia

The National D-Day Memorial was the vision of D-Day veteran, J. Robert “Bob” Slaughter. He was concerned that there were no national monuments recognizing the efforts and sacrifices of World War II GIs, let alone those who participated in D-Day. There were no central locations for World War II vets and their families to go to reflect and heal. In the mid-1990s he began lobbying for such a place to be built, and Bedford, Virginia was eventually selected as the final location for the D-Day Memorial. The massive undertaking was finally dedicated in 2001, and despite having approval from the U.S. Congress to build such a monument, the National D-Day Memorial was completely paid for by private funds and continues to operate solely on private donations.

Rainbow over Necrology Wall at National D-Day Memorial
A Rainbow shines over the National D-Day Necrology Wall listing the names of the Allies who lost their lives on D-Day, June 6, 1944.

As you tour through the Memorial, you are taken on a journey from the planning stages of what we now know as Operation Overlord. You come to better understand the strength it took to get through the months of immense preparations, from the gathering of Allied troops and supplies from 12 countries to the eventual crossing of the English Channel in harsh, rainy conditions on June 6, 1944. You symbolically experience the battle itself on the beaches and climb the cliffs of Normandy to a point of victory, remembrance, and reflection on all that was lost and all that was gained in the name of freedom.

National D-Day Memorial Sculpture_Bedford, VA
Sculpture at National D-Day Memorial that honors the fallen soldiers of D-Day. Many people leave momentos on this sculpture including the Purple Heart we happened upon.

The staff and volunteers have many stories of special moments at the Memorial. I remember the first time I toured the National D-Day Memorial. We were accompanied by a D-Day Veteran, one of the “Bedford Boys” who came through Jun 6th unscathed while his twin brother was killed. I also remember on my first visit to the memorial coming upon the Overlord Arch and seeing someone anonymously left their Purple Heart medal on the sculpture that memorializes the fallen soldiers of D-Day. It just about brought all of us to tears. To this day, the staff has no record or backstory on who left the Purple Heart or why. Other stories mention a spouse, who lost the love of her life on D-Day, coming to the memorial looking for healing after all these years, veterans of all wars grieving and then cleansing their souls of their wartime experiences, even an elderly German man who participated in D-Day on the Axis side who came to honor those he killed and to say he was sorry.

Double Rainbow over National D-Day Memorial_Bedford, VA
A Double Rainbow forming over the National D-Day Memorial during my visit in March.

The humanity that comes out of such stories is touching and beautiful. It’s what keeps me returning to the Memorial. And I encourage you to make the trek and experience the National D-Day Memorial for yourself. You will be glad you did.

To plan your trip to the National D-Day Memorial, learn more, or make a donation, click here!

Lessons I Have Learned From Being a Country Mouse, City Mouse and Suburban Mouse

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Being a Country Mouse_City Mouse_Suburban Mouse

I consider myself very fortunate to have grown up as a country kid in the gorgeous Finger Lakes Region of Central New York State. It’s probably why I have such a bohemian lifestyle now. If you’ve never been to the Finger Lakes, it’s a mostly rural part of the state filled with 10 long lakes that look like fingers. The lakes are surrounded by rolling hills containing hundreds of wineries, bed-and-breakfasts, farms, orchards, gorges, waterfalls and picturesque little towns filled with restaurants, shops, colleges, and museums. Not far away, you will also find the cities of Syracuse, Rochester, and Buffalo, the remnants of the famous Erie Canal, Lake Ontario to the North, Lake Erie to the West. And of course, Niagara Falls and Canada are nearby.

Fingerlakes Skaneateles Lake Winter Sunset
Winter Sunset, Skaneateles, NY in the Fingerlakes Region

Growing Up as a Country Mouse

Growing up, we lived in the middle of nowhere on ten acres of land surrounded by fields and woods. We had an incredible view of the surrounding hills. My dad always wanted to try farming as a hobby, so he planted a huge garden and as well as an orchard of over 500 apple trees. We made our own Maple Syrup in Winter. We ice skated on frozen ponds. My folks even caved and let us get horses, rabbits, cats and a dog. My childhood was pretty idyllic.

White Rabbit and Karen McMahon in the 1980s.
I am about 8 in this picture.

Over the years, I have lived in the country, in cities, and in suburbia, as well as traveled extensively around the U.S. Living in the country is by far my favorite. However, each place I have resided in has given me lessons, memories, and insight.

Living in the City

Most people have no idea, but my parents grew up in the Bronx, so the vibe of New York City is quite ingrained in me. We have had ancestors living in New York City since the early 1700s. Yes, pre-revolutionary times! So there’s some definite culture that has been passed down through the generations.

While I have never lived in New York City, we certainly visited often while I was a kid. I feel at one with the essence of New York as soon as I set foot in Manhattan. I love talking to my parents about their memories of growing up in the city in the 1930s through 1950s, and their many visits in the 1960s through 1990s. By the 1970s, they had my sister and I in tow, and we often visited the city for my Birthday over Memorial Day Weekend. I have many happy memories visiting the Bronx Zoo, The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the American Museum of Natural History, wandering through Macy’s, and sitting in Central Park. I remember my fascination with all of the tall buildings, the taxis everywhere, Grand Central Station, the Subways and the general intense hustle and bustle of the city.

Times Square NYC
Times Square, New York City

I did choose to go to college in an urban setting and lived in Troy, NY. My first job in state politics took me on a daily commute into Albany, NY. I remember at first wondering if I would ever get used to the constant drumming noises of city life. Even at night, I could still hear the sounds of the highway nearby, police sirens, and sometimes gunshots (the neighborhood was not the safest). And of course, I lived near the path where drunken students loudly stumbled home from the local bars in the wee hours.

I learned how to use the bus system to commute. It was often simpler than hiking the several blocks to my car and then trying to find parking at the other end when I got to work. I even remember the smell of the pollution coming from the buses, trucks and all those cars on the streets and highways.

While I eventually became comfortable with city living, it was a far cry from the way I grew up out in the country! It took some adjustment time. My dorm room looked out onto a historic park across the street. I was forever thankful to look out on those trees and paths and set foot in the park on the way to professors’ offices. I think even then, I longed for open space.

Living in Suburbia

When I met and married my husband, we bought a house in suburbia. At the time, we had a thriving family business and we were traveling regularly. So my criteria were that the house was 1. Comfortable and cushy; 2. In an area where we could easily sell if we needed to move elsewhere for work; and 3. CLOSE to the airport because my father-in-law always insisted on booking us on the early flights. (We manifested all three including being only 15 minutes from the airport).

While our home and neighborhood are very lovely, I started calling our location “Suburban Hell” and “Anywhere U.S.” I have come to the conclusion that I prefer either living in a city or living in the country. I just don’t care for the in-between of suburban living.

It’s been hard to identify why my soul is just not completely relaxed here. I think in a city, there is constant noise which creates a particular on-going rhythm. In suburbia, the neighborhoods have a look like we are living in a community, but after 16 years, we only know a handful of the several hundred neighbors in our development. I am also very energetically sensitive to the world, so my higher self-tunes into the shutting of car doors, conversations or arguments of people walking by, vehicles coming and going, lawn mowers, phones ringing, dogs barking, etc. For me, the noises and movements are just separate enough to be distracting and energy draining.


Becoming a Country Mouse Again

That being said, we are considering moving into the country again. My husband, Al, grew up in the mountains of Northern Pennsylvania and remembers many hours of happily playing in the woods with his brothers and friends. He always feels a sense of peace when he visits his childhood town and the surrounding mountains. That’s how I feel too when we walk around my parents’ property.

Central_New_York_Fingerlakes_View
The view where I grew up.

We are casually starting to look for a new home on the other side of Syracuse from where we are now. We have our eyes peeled for a house that has personality and is surrounded by a chunk of land. We are hoping for minimal neighbors, a very private yard, and land ideally consisting of woods or fields.

And of course, we would love a view of the rolling hills found in the region. Central New York sunsets can be amazing! I think more than anything, I am hoping for true soul-deep peace and quiet around me. And I know that I am most happy when I can set my feet on grass, be surrounded by old trees and breathe in fresh air. (Can you tell I am an introvert?)

While my husband keeps asking whether I want to own horses again (probably not for the sheer amount of work involved), I am very thankful for the experience our parents gave us to appreciate our wide-open surroundings. Life is short and it is important to live where your soul is most happy.